L’Avant Comptoir

Steps away from the Odéon you’ll find this cozy bistro, where the food is so good people stand.  Owner Yves Camdeborde told the New York Times he wanted “to end the tyranny of the table.” He’s opted for a “hors d’oeuvres bar” that serves up an ever rotating array of French hors d’oeuvres—think deep-fried pig’s-foot croquettes—but that doesn’t mean you can’t eat until you’re full. Sabine Brunner goes for Sunday lunch with her family, members young and old of which love the à la carte menu. They also like sitting outside, even during the winter, as the restaurant provides heaters and fleece blankets.